BBQ Bodega: Wines to invite to your next outdoor party
All fired-up for another summer!
We’ve just come off the high of the fun trip to Prince Edward County and now it’s time to discuss more serious summer matters: What are you going to drink at that upcoming backyard party? One wrong move with a failed pairing can turn the whole affair into a char grilled mess.
Well, it isn’t entirely that serious. It’s actually the most light-hearted time of the year as we enjoy the warm nights with the glow of the late sunsets.
The rule of thumb for wine pairing also applies in a BBQ context: match the weight of the wine with the weight of the food. I’d go further to say, match the flavour of the wine with the flavour of the food. I don’t necessarily mean go out and find beef or salmon-flavoured wine (if you do stumble upon one, take it back), but rather, I’m referring to matching the flavour intensities of the wine and food.
Every backyard party should start with a more light-hearted, refreshing wine. A Pinot Grigio from Italy is one that gets the palate enlivened from the acidity and dryness, preparing your taste buds for the meal. The Attems Pinot Grigio is light-bodied with zesty notes of crunchy green apple, pear and finishes with a bit of cantaloupe rind for bitterness. The length is relatively short, but definitely does the trick in starting a big meal to come.
If you’re looking to throw some fish on the barbie, you’ll probably choose a relatively heavier fare such as salmon, shark or swordfish. A full-flavoured Chardonnay can match the weight and offer the acidity to cut the fat of the fish oil. The Chile’s Leyda Valley, near the port town of San Antonio, is steps to the Pacific Ocean and just West of Santiago. The cooler climate with its dry summers and many sunny days offers slower ripening over the prolonged growth season. The sand, clay and granite soils drain well and retain heat to support the flourishing of elegant Chardonnay. The Amayna Chardonnay is medium-full bodied with notes of honey, banana bread, peach and vanilla. The finish is quite lengthy and has a touch of warmth from the more than ample 14.8% alcohol. Venture to the Northern coastal region of California and you’ll find some of the world’s best expressions of this grape, reaching its pinnacle in Napa, Sonoma, and Monterey Counties. The vineyards benefit from the morning or evening fog that rolls in from the Pacific, to relieve the area of the temperatures that can exceed 40°C. Soils can range from chalk, clay, volcanic and stone. The Ghost Pines ‘Winemaker’s Blend’ Chardonnay assembles grapes from the three counties. In comparison to its Chilean neighbour, it is much more tropical with mango and pineapple notes. There is a balanced measure of oak character with vanilla, nuttiness and smoke. The palate is very full with a buttery, creamy texture and very pleasing finish.
Fire it up for the tasty pork, beef and lamb! These meats have more weight and protein, calling for equally weighted red wines. The pairing for all that protein? Tannin. When the two intermingle the meat seems to become more tender and what was a harsher, drying, grippy-feeling wine becomes softer and the flavours become pronounced. A classic BBQ wine is Australian Shiraz. The Clare Valley, North of Adelaide has a continental climate with cool to cold nights and hot summer days. The key to their wines of finesse are courtesy of the great diurnal range. The more than 40-degree temperature fluctuation each day helps the vines to rest from the immense heat, develop complexity and help the even ripening of the grape bunches. The vines benefit from the higher altitudes (350 m) both for the sun exposure and moderation of temperature. The Wakefield Shiraz represents great value for the region. Flavours of prune, black cherry and blackcurrant jam predominate, but there are hints of pine resin on the nose to add to the complexity. The mouthfeel is plentiful with soft tannin, mild acidity and full in weight. Another wine with a great reputation and very fitting for this scene is Rioja. The warm, continental climate of North-eastern Spain has its heat moderated by the nearby river, Ebro. Tempranillo is the principal grape of the region and its name comes from the word ‘temprano’ which means ‘early’, referring to its ability to ripen quickly. It is often blended with Grenache (garnacha) and Carignan (Cariñena, known as Mazuelo in Rioja) in these red blends. The Marqués De Riscal Reserva is one of the bottles that can easily catch your eye with its golden threading. The gold thread over the top of the bottle was used historically, as a seal, to indicate whether or not the wine was tampered with. Beyond the thread and beneath the cork this wine is very ripe, giving a perception of sweetness. Notes of stewed strawberry, sweet spices and thyme are developing in this wine which was aged for at least three years (By law, for the Reserva designation, the wine must be aged in cask for at least one year and in bottle for two). The tannin and acidity provide a good structure and the flavours pleasantly linger.
Among the more lighter-bodied wines (although still very flavourful) is Barbera d’Alba. Barbera is a red grape and Alba is a commune in the region of Piemonte, Italy. The vineyards are located at the foothills of what is essentially the Swiss Alps, shielded from the cold climate. Barbera makes tangy cherry-flavoured wines that are medium-bodied, deep-coloured, lighter in tannin and full of acidity. The Fontanafredda Briccotondo Barbera is a full-flavoured example with notes of ripe cherry, cocoa and a hint of smoke. The acidity makes for a red meat and tomato sauce friendly wine, as most Italian reds are.
I would be remiss if I didn’t mention a Canadian wine worthy to invite to the party. Baco Noir is a hybrid grape – a crossing between Folle Blanche (species vinifera) and an unknown strain of Vitis riparia (North American) and was designed to withstand the harsh winters of Ontario. In Prince Edward County, the vines need to be buried with soil for insulation during the deep freeze, but Baco Noir often survives if kept bare. Baco is starting to develop a following as the Ontario wineries grow in popularity. In Prince Edward the limestone soils and cool climate help Baco Noir to retain the acidity and minerality it is known for. The grapes are early to ripen and yield intensely dark tinted juice. The wine can develop interesting herbal and tomato-based flavours and are often referred to as a ‘pizza wine’. The Sandbanks Baco Reserve is a full-bodied example with racy acidity to add structure to the dark plum and blackberry flavours. Notes of rosemary and oregano add to the complexity and the mouthfeel has delicate tannin.
A flight like this should definitely liven up the party and make all that grilling all the more tasty. Enjoy!
Multiple Personalities and Alter Egos
This topic will cover
- Pointers for tasting
- Tasting notes of Riesling, Chardonnay and Syrah from multiple countries
1. Pointers for tasting:
- Note the colour and clarity of the wine to look for faults (browning may be a sign of spoilage). Briefly ‘nose’ (sniff) the wine to check for wet cardboard/moldy smell (‘cork taint’).
- Swirl the wine in the glass to release the aromas and take short sniffs, as opposed to long inhalations. TIP: If your nose is exhausted it helps to sniff your shirt-sleeve to recalibrate.
- How intense is the nose of the wine? Do you smell a variety of fruit, floral, spice, etc? Try to qualify the scent further (e.g. fresh, dried or stewed/jam). All of these characters can help build your tasting note.
- Swirl the wine in the glass to release the aromas and take short sniffs, as opposed to long inhalations. TIP: If your nose is exhausted it helps to sniff your shirt-sleeve to recalibrate.
- Taste the wine. Coat all of your mouth. Introduce air by opening your lips as you lightly breathe in.
- Make observations of the flavour profile as for the nose.
- Also note
- Acidity: How does the wine make your mouth water or pucker your lips?
- Sweetness: dry, off-dry, medium-dry, medium-sweet, sweet, luscious/syrupy
- Tannin (for reds): best gauged by the gripping sensations in the inside of the lips against your teeth, or your tongue and the hard palate (think of the sensation of a cotton ball in your mouth or drinking a heavily-steeped tea).
- Alcohol: often sensed by the heat felt on the finish (when the wine leaves the mouth), as the residual wine sits on your inner lips and gums just above your two front teeth.
- Body (weight): is it like skim milk (light), 2% or homo (medium), or cream (heavy)? Body is the summation of (a) through (d). Acidity and tannin lighten weight; sugar and alcohol add weight.
- The ‘finish’ is the period when the wine leaves the mouth. What flavours do you notice? How long does the fruit linger in the mouth (the ‘length’).
- TIP: ‘Retronasal breathing’ may uncover additional nuances as the warmed vapours passes back over your nasal passages, palate and tongue. Close your mouth, drop your tongue away from your hard palate, and breathe out your nose, letting some of the air enter your buccal cavity.
- Quality: What makes a great wine? Think of a symphony orchestra…
- Complexity: Has a variety of flavours (more than three) like instruments in a band
- Balance: Nothing is overbearing or obnoxious. The profile is in harmony.
- Regional Typicity: With experience, you will be able to note where the wine comes from (the ‘terroir’), based on what you perceive (Much like recognizing the genre of the music).
Is this a daunting exercise? We exercise our bodies almost every day. You can do the same for your palate. With continued (conscious) smelling and tasting, you will soon be able ‘bench-press’ any wine, no matter how serious.
2. Tasting notes
2010 Cave Spring Estate Riesling, VQA Beamsville Bench $17.95 (LCBO, V #286377)
Pale lemon colour, nose of granny smith apples and a hint of muscat. The off-dry palate has much acidity and a fresh light body with flavours of apple, tart peach, a touch of lychee and with mineral notes. Medium length.
2010 H. Thanisch Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese, Mosel $24.95 (LCBO, V, 295667)
There is some great depth to this late-harvest. Medium-lemon with green flecks. Candied oranges and a hint of rosebud on the nose. The medium-sweet palate is in great balance with the acidity and minerality. Very lengthy with flavours of apricot and Mandarin orange.
2010 Tawse ‘Sketches of Niagara’ Riesling, VQA Niagara Peninsula $17.95 (LCBO, V, 89029)
A delicious riesling at a great pricepoint. Red apple, peach, mango and minerality for structure. Medium-dry and medium body with a tart acidity. Great balance and excellent length.
2010 Séguinot-Bordet, AC Chablis 1er cru, Vaillons $29.95 (LCBO, V, 289389)
More intense than ordinary Chablis. Notes of lemon rind and crisp green apple, wet stone and smoky flint. The palate is medium-light bodied with refreshing acidity. Briny undertones and nice length. Oysters anyone? Great value.
2008 Domaine Drouhin ‘Arthur’, AVA Dundee Hills $19.95 (LCBO, V, 959619)
Medium intense with notes of fresh pineapple, lemon and baguette, with barrel-aged caramel and vanilla characters. Medium-full body with structured acidity. Great length, with juicy pineapple and peach finish.
2009 Dierberg/Star Lane Vineyards ‘Three Saints’ Chardonnay, AVA Santa Maria Valley $20.95 (LCBO, V, 297531)
This medium-full-bodied chardonnay has nose of stewed peach, roast pineapple and brown sugar. The structured acidity balances the buttery, creamy body. The potent alcohol lingers on the palate with some heat that is a touch excessive.
2007 Pierre Gaillard, AC Saint-Joseph $22.15 (LCBO, V, 194928)
Classy old-world charactered syrah. Deep ruby with a ruby rim. A developed nose of dried black fruits, pepper, and prosciutto. There was a dark floral element that added to the elegance. The palate has soft tannins and full body. The meaty and leathered flavours come through most prominently and the finish is pleasingly tart. Generous length.
2010 Grant Burge ‘Miamba’ Shiraz, Barossa Valley $21.80 (LCBO, G, 284091)
A full-bodied purpled style with blackberry jam, black cherry, hints of clove and black pepper. The palate has light acidity and grippy tannin. The density of fruit hints imparts perceived off-dry sweetness. Nice length with a dark chocolate finish.
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