Andiamo!

Italian wine has come a long way to earn back its positive international reputation. Just a few decades ago, the wine left much to be desired with shoddy winemaking practices, insipid flavour profiles and little consideration for overall quality (in their defence, there were still great wines to be had, but the negative press really ruined everything). Substantial investment from the government helped to fund technology, education and the implementation of regulations to improve the quality of these wines.

Another part of what makes Italian wine difficult to understand starts with the label. The use of indigenous grapes such as trebbiano, verdicchio, sangiovese and nebbiolo are not well recognized by the North American market. Further, there are 20 regions of Italy such as Piedmont (Piemonte), Tuscany and Sicily that like to do things their own way with their own grapes – not to mention the many provinces within these regions, which are then subdivided by communes and so on.

If I had to categorize Italian wine into a personality type, I’d say that it is an extrovert. It thrives when it is accompanied by food, rather than sipped alone. There is less emphasis on plush fruit flavour and more representation of spice, herbs and a characteristic drying bitterness that begs to be followed by a bite of food. Italians are known for eating and I think that the wine is in part what stimulates their appetite.

Racing along the mountain range

It’s quite literal when you assemble a group for an Italian tasting. That boot-shaped peninsula is one big mountain range known as the Apennines. It forms a T-shape with the Alps to the north and runs the entire length of the country toward the island of Sicily. The country is very hilly in general and if you read enough Viniminutes you’ll already know how grapevines appreciate sloping landscapes.

To the Northwest is Piemonte (pronounced ‘pje-monteh’, translates to ‘foothill’) and the region is best known for the communes like Barolo, Barbaresco, Asti and Alba. The red grapes of Nebbiolo, Barbera and the white sparkling wine, Moscato, are the region’s most revered. Nebbiolo is a picky grape, that is high in tannin, acidity and is full of dried red fruit, tar, leather and dried flowers. The 2006 Vinum Vitae Est Barolo DOCG is medium garnet in colour with notes of potpourri, leather and burgundy plum. It’s a pleasing entry-level at a great price ($25) considering the average price for these wines being upwards of $40. The LCBO has expanded its general list (of which this wine is now a part of) to include value Piemonte wines that sell for almost double this price south of the border.

Just south of here is the region of Liguria where the white grape of Vermentino is prominent. The Lunae Colli dei Luni DOC is a medium-lemon colour, with green apple, pear and with herbal notes of basil and sage. A more light-weighted wine it has refreshing acidity and a drying finish that makes for a great choice to start a meal.

Romeo and Juliet would have enjoyed some good wine to cope with their family feud. Toward Verona (and in the region Veneto) is the commune of Valpolicella. The red wine of the area is a blend of primarily Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara and typically made in a light-bodied, fruity style. Ripasso-style wines can also be found, which re-use the dried grape skins from the production of Amarone to steep in added flavour and tannin (the process of drying grapes is known as appassimento). The prominent producer, Masi, makes a wide variety of Valpolicella and its Brolo Campofiorin ‘Oro’ is intense with raisin, currant and peppery aromas. The mouthfeel is full-bodied, with soft tannin and the fruit really lingers.

Central Italy has plenty to offer and is home to the most significant of the Italian grapes, Sangiovese (translates to ‘blood of Jove’) which hails from the region of Tuscany. The principal wine is Chianti DOCG and is traditionally a blend of Sangiovese with other red and white grapes, but many are now completely made of Sangiovese. Some wineries exercise creativity with blending their wines such as 2011 Mocine IGT Toscana a complex blend that had notes of blueberry, wild cherry, violet, pine and leather. This wine had the acidity, tannin and mouthfeel that are characteristic of a wine that can be aged for a few more years to mature. Wines that are more traditional and are grown within the original Chianti borders have the name ‘Chianti Classico’. Marchesi Antinori’s 2010 ‘Peppoli’ Chianti Classico DOCG is a great value at $20 and will also age well. Black cherry, currant, liquorice root and leather make for a rustic-flavoured wine, but the mouthfeel has soft tannin. The concentrated ‘jammy’ qualities of the fruit usually present in these young wines will develop into more dried fruit character which is what I recently experienced with a more aged Chianti, like the 2007 Isole e Olena, that I brought out of my cellar last month.

All fired-up for another summer!

We’ve just come off the high of the fun trip to Prince Edward County and now it’s time to discuss more serious summer matters: What are you going to drink at that upcoming backyard party? One wrong move with a failed pairing can turn the whole affair into a char grilled mess.

Well, it isn’t entirely that serious. It’s actually the most light-hearted time of the year as we enjoy the warm nights with the glow of the late sunsets.

 

The rule of thumb for wine pairing also applies in a BBQ context: match the weight of the wine with the weight of the food. I’d go further to say, match the flavour of the wine with the flavour of the food. I don’t necessarily mean go out and find beef or salmon-flavoured wine (if you do stumble upon one, take it back), but rather, I’m referring to matching the flavour intensities of the wine and food.

Every backyard party should start with a more light-hearted, refreshing wine. A Pinot Grigio from Italy is one that gets the palate enlivened from the acidity and dryness, preparing your taste buds for the meal. The Attems Pinot Grigio is light-bodied with zesty notes of crunchy green apple, pear and finishes with a bit of cantaloupe rind for bitterness. The length is relatively short, but definitely does the trick in starting a big meal to come.

If you’re looking to throw some fish on the barbie, you’ll probably choose a relatively heavier fare such as salmon, shark or swordfish. A full-flavoured Chardonnay can match the weight and offer the acidity to cut the fat of the fish oil. The Chile’s Leyda Valley, near the port town of San Antonio, is steps to the Pacific Ocean and just West of Santiago. The cooler climate with its dry summers and many sunny days offers slower ripening over the prolonged growth season. The sand, clay and granite soils drain well and retain heat to support the flourishing of elegant Chardonnay. The Amayna Chardonnay is medium-full bodied with notes of honey, banana bread, peach and vanilla. The finish is quite lengthy and has a touch of warmth from the more than ample 14.8% alcohol. Venture to the Northern coastal region of California and you’ll find some of the world’s best expressions of this grape, reaching its pinnacle in Napa, Sonoma, and Monterey Counties. The vineyards benefit from the morning or evening fog that rolls in from the Pacific, to relieve the area of the temperatures that can exceed 40°C. Soils can range from chalk, clay, volcanic and stone. The Ghost Pines ‘Winemaker’s Blend’ Chardonnay assembles grapes from the three counties. In comparison to its Chilean neighbour, it is much more tropical with mango and pineapple notes. There is a balanced measure of oak character with vanilla, nuttiness and smoke. The palate is very full with a buttery, creamy texture and very pleasing finish.

Fire it up for the tasty pork, beef and lamb! These meats have more weight and protein, calling for equally weighted red wines. The pairing for all that protein? Tannin. When the two intermingle the meat seems to become more tender and what was a harsher, drying, grippy-feeling wine becomes softer and the flavours become pronounced. A classic BBQ wine is Australian Shiraz. The Clare Valley, North of Adelaide has a continental climate with cool to cold nights and hot summer days. The key to their wines of finesse are courtesy of the great diurnal range. The more than 40-degree temperature fluctuation each day helps the vines to rest from the immense heat, develop complexity and help the even ripening of the grape bunches. The vines benefit from the higher altitudes (350 m) both for the sun exposure and moderation of temperature. The Wakefield Shiraz represents great value for the region. Flavours of prune, black cherry and blackcurrant jam predominate, but there are hints of pine resin on the nose to add to the complexity. The mouthfeel is plentiful with soft tannin, mild acidity and full in weight. Another wine with a great reputation and very fitting for this scene is Rioja. The warm, continental climate of North-eastern Spain has its heat moderated by the nearby river, Ebro. Tempranillo is the principal grape of the region and its name comes from the word ‘temprano’ which means ‘early’, referring to its ability to ripen quickly. It is often blended with Grenache (garnacha) and Carignan (Cariñena, known as Mazuelo in Rioja) in these red blends. The Marqués De Riscal Reserva is one of the bottles that can easily catch your eye with its golden threading. The gold thread over the top of the bottle was used historically, as a seal, to indicate whether or not the wine was tampered with. Beyond the thread and beneath the cork this wine is very ripe, giving a perception of sweetness. Notes of stewed strawberry, sweet spices and thyme are developing in this wine which was aged for at least three years (By law, for the Reserva designation, the wine must be aged in cask for at least one year and in bottle for two). The tannin and acidity provide a good structure and the flavours pleasantly linger.

Among the more lighter-bodied wines (although still very flavourful) is Barbera d’Alba. Barbera is a red grape and Alba is a commune in the region of Piemonte, Italy. The vineyards are located at the foothills of what is essentially the Swiss Alps, shielded from the cold climate. Barbera makes tangy cherry-flavoured wines that are medium-bodied, deep-coloured, lighter in tannin and full of acidity. The Fontanafredda Briccotondo Barbera is a full-flavoured example with notes of ripe cherry, cocoa and a hint of smoke. The acidity makes for a red meat and tomato sauce friendly wine, as most Italian reds are.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention a Canadian wine worthy to invite to the party. Baco Noir is a hybrid grape – a crossing between Folle Blanche (species vinifera) and an unknown strain of Vitis riparia (North American) and was designed to withstand the harsh winters of Ontario. In Prince Edward County, the vines need to be buried with soil for insulation during the deep freeze, but Baco Noir often survives if kept bare. Baco is starting to develop a following as the Ontario wineries grow in popularity. In Prince Edward the limestone soils and cool climate help Baco Noir to retain the acidity and minerality it is known for. The grapes are early to ripen and yield intensely dark tinted juice. The wine can develop interesting herbal and tomato-based flavours and are often referred to as a ‘pizza wine’. The Sandbanks Baco Reserve is a full-bodied example with racy acidity to add structure to the dark plum and blackberry flavours. Notes of rosemary and oregano add to the complexity and the mouthfeel has delicate tannin.

A flight like this should definitely liven up the party and make all that grilling all the more tasty. Enjoy!