A tribute to two giants

Nearing the end of a less than spectacular summer it was fitting to elevate the excitement of the Vinovigilantes with our first comparative tasting of this year’s instalment of meetings. I called it ‘Super Sauvignon’ as these two related grapes (with the white grape Sauvignon blanc or, for short, ‘Sauvignon’, being a parent to the red grape Cabernet sauvignon or, for short, ‘Cabernet’) are a wine staples the world over. For example, both have found supreme success as being part of the red and whites of Bordeaux. They are also found as principal grapes in other parts of France, as well as in Australia, New Zealand, and the Americas. By limiting the tasting to only one red and one white grape, you can better appreciate the nuances, be they subtle or obvious, in their expressions from country to country.

Tasting hallmarks of Sauvignon and Cabernet

Sauvignon and Cabernet are relatively later to ripen out in the vineyard. These grapes are used in blends to provide structure through either their acidity or tannin. Therefore, they can turn otherwise flabby tasting wines into ones with marvellous mouthfeel by providing a firm backbone. [More on how we sense these tactile elements in October 2013’s tasting ‘Deconstruction, Reconstruction’]. On their own, they are food friendly wines that do a great job of cleansing the palate of high amounts of fats and protein.

The common flavours these grapes are best understood when tasting the wines of cool climates where the grapes do not over-ripen on the vine. Rather, they have greater chance of being under-ripe in harsh years. Green bell pepper, chemically known as methoxypyrazines, and black or white currant (or gooseberry) are common in both Sauvignon and Cabernet. The pepper element is typically pronounced when the grapes are under-ripe. Sauvignons have characteristic nettle (‘weeds’), cut grass characters along with citrus. Cabernets can develop luscious cassis and dark berry flavours.

Around the world in two grapes

The tasting was not completely around the world, but six countries spanning three continents was still a good representation. Let’s discuss the whites and then the reds:

Sauvignon blanc

We’ll start close to home with 2012 Creekside ‘Backyard Block’ Sauvignon Blanc which hails from the Niagara Peninsula, near the village of Jordan. This year was above average for warmth and dryness. The grapes were very early to ripen and yielded high sugar with a great measure of acidity. The wine has quite the presence on the palate. It is medium-weight and elevated by the high acidity and a hint of spritz. There are flavours of citrus, grapefruit and the honeyed tropical notes that come about in hot vintages. Taking a trip down under brings us to two countries that excel in Sauvignon, Australia and New Zealand. The Shingleback ‘Haycutters’ Sauvignon blanc/Semillon is from the areas of Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale in South Australia. The climate tends to be cooler than other wine regions. This wine is relatively lighter bodied and delicate where the grassy and hay notes can be experienced. Even cooler winemaking climates can be experienced near Marlborough, New Zealand where the Blind River ‘Awatare Valley’ and Cloudy Bay Sauvignon blanc can be found. Both the wines are racy with mouth-watering acidity. They are both great to serve at the beginning of the meal to stimulate the appetite. The Blind River Sauvignon has a very pleasing, herbaceous aroma with ample citrus fruit and white currant. A portion was aged in oak casks to add a further layer of complexity with a whiff of smoke. The Cloudy Bay Sauvignon is a long-standing staple of the LCBO Vintages portfolio and is considered a Sauvignon with the price tag to match. It’s quite complex with cantaloupe, lime, bell pepper and plenty of minerality, great for oysters and shellfish!

The acidity and minerality of Sauvignon blanc pairs beautifully with the brine of the oysters.

Alas, we returned home to experience a local wine with Italian influence. Foreign Affair’s ‘Abbracio’ Sauvignon blanc is made using the appasimento technique which dries a portion of the grapes. The result is a wine that concentrates the fruit, minerality and acidity. The mouthfeel is full-bodied with flavours of pink grapefruit, pineapple, melon, grass, and with vanilla bean from aging for a brief period in French oak. Although it is technically a dry wine, one can appreciate that the intensity of fruit flavours which can be perceived as sweetness on the palate. Therefore, the wine is tastes as though it is off-dry.

Cabernet sauvignon

Cabernet sauvignon is the principal red grape of Chile, by volume, even though this country is probably most well-known for the grape Carmenere for which Chile is practically its only home. Here, we tasted Cabernet from two of Chile’s original wineries – The relatively large Carmen and the gigantic Concha y Toro; in fact, it is one of the largest wineries in the world. I was introduced to Carmen’s chief winemaker, Sebastian Labbé, years ago through a good friend. I sought his advice about starting in the wine industry after applying to Lincoln University (New Zealand) for a lectureship where he graduated. Sebastian explained to me,

“Also as you say, this passion easily becomes an obsession as every single detail can make a huge difference. Even though, it took me a while to understand that the real secret is in the terroir; climate, SOIL and human factor. I think any winemaker can make great wine with high quality grapes but with average fruit it is hard to get depth and roundness. We are definitely not magicians.”

This is quite true of all wines and could never be more applicable for Cabernet Sauvignon. If not careful, it can take on a tight, highly-structured form with coarse tannins, woodiness, and grape stems, making it difficult to palate. Conversely, in its best expression, during the best vintages and handled with the utmost care, it can develop a beautiful velvety smoothness along with a palate that exudes elegant and fruit, floral, spice and even animale characters that can develop over decades. Tasting the Carmen ‘Gran Reserva’ Cabernet Sauvignon one can appreciate the blackberry compote, hints of cassis, cracked black pepper, finely-textured tannin and pleasing oak characteristics that impart coffee beans and cocoa.

My visit to Concha y Toro over 4 years ago was a fun experience. Although large and touristy, with plenty of bus tours coming and going. I recommend the trek through the countryside by bicycle (Paseos en Bicicleta). The scariest, yet humorous experience was going down into the Casillero del Diablo (the Devil’s cellar, that also bears the name of the winery’s entry level offerings) as they played tricks on us in turning out the lights of the cobwebbed-laden barrel cellar. Moving up their portfolio’s offering will land you at level of the ‘Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet sauvignon. This is Cabernet in a more structured, but still pleasing form, as many in the group rather enjoyed this style. The dark fruit and cassis was still present but there was also an ample portion of ‘structural’ elements and flavours such as slightly coarse tannin, acidity and the bell pepper note. This wine would be most pleasing if paired with a cut of medium-rare beef or even tartare.

Cycling around Chilean wine country in the Maipo on a tour with Paseos en Bicicleta.

Back to Australia again, home of the first wine that I actually drank a whole bottle of (well, of course, it was over an entire evening…among friends…up at the trailer…during my undergrad years…having a party…okay, I’ve dug my hole enough). The Wolf Blass ‘Yellow Label’ Cabernet Sauvignon is an icon among the shelves at the LCBO and likely worldwide. I agree that this wine, years before Yellowtail, played a major role in turning us on to discover Australian wines, period. This wine comes in at a competitive price of $17 and you get a pretty solid wine that is on the plush, ripe side of Cabernet. The dark berry fruits are prominent, with hints of menthol and cinnamon spice. The soft tannin makes the wine very approachable to a broad group of people and is still a great start for those learning about wine.

I have held off for too long to not speak of France. They make the Cabernet of fairytales – some wines need fairytale-sized wallets to afford them. It is important to know that the Bordelais are blend masters where as many as six grapes can be found in a red Bordeaux blend. In order to find the Cabernet-dominant offerings, you have to seek out the so-called ‘Left Bank’ because the gravely soils of the vineyards that lie to the West of the river Garonne are idyllic for growing Cabernet. The 2009 Château D’Aurilhac from Haut Medoc is a good entry level example or ‘Cru Bourgeois’. The wine has a deep ruby with a blue hue (so it is still young). Blue berry, leather, smoke and barn dust are recognizable scents. The palate is mid-weight with balanced acidity and grippy tannin. The berry flavours are downplayed with predominant nuances of nutmeg, clove and savouriness.

France makes wine of fairytales? Not so, say the Californians. The counties of the northern and central coast of California would beg to differ that France is supreme in making Cabernet. The relatively warmer climates will tend to accentuate the fruit qualities. Firestone Cabernet Sauvignon is one such juicy version, from Central coast in Santa Ynez Valley, part of Santa Barbara County. The wine exudes elements of strawberry jam, black currant with notes of licorice and chocolate. There is also some savouriness and slightly coarse tannin. It finishes warm (thanks to 14% alcohol) but has a generous length. The highlight tasting of the evening was the Stags’ Leap Cabernet sauvignon. The winery has significance as its 1973 Cabernet took title of the top red wine during the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976, finishing a hair ahead of three Bordeaux powerhouses. We tasted the 2009 vintage. Still relatively young, it is already showing its refinement with silky tannin and a mix of dark berry fruit, peppercorn, coffeebean, cocoa and tobacco leaf. It’s an experience; you decide whether the $50 is worth it.

Discover Sauvignon

Tasting these wines side by side makes it far easier to pick out the nuances of how terroir and winemaking practices are used to create artwork out of all the science. With such a broad range of expressions it is also easy to discover your favourite style or help you match a particular profile with the food you will enjoy alongside.

Marche (pronounced ‘mar-ke’), which faces the Adriatic sea to the east, is getting over its reputation as a mass-produced wine of unmentionable character. The key wine of the region, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC is known for it’s floral perfumed qualities when made well. The 2010 Casal Farneto ‘Crisio’ is medium straw in colour with notes of pear, Red Delicious apple, rose and lavender. It has a slight petillance which makes for a lighter-bodied mouthfeel.

Further south, lies Abruzzo and is known for the red grape Montepulciano. The wine is deeply coloured, medium-bodied and is mainly consumed young. An aged example, the 2008 Coste delle Plaie is still purpled in colour and has a mix of tart cherry, red berries, bell pepper and cinnamon spice. It still has good quantities of tannin and acid to keep it aging for a few more years. Otherwise, let it breathe or serve with red meat with tomato sauce.

Campania, the region that encompasses the towns of Naples, Pompeii and the idyllic Amalfi Coast is not as represented on our market compared to some the other regions. So a visit to a wine agency or LCBO/SAQ in an Italian neighbourhood is a good idea to source these wines. A particular white wine, Lacryma Christi (translates to ‘tears of Christ’) comes in red (rosso) and white (bianco) versions. The 2012 Mastroberardino Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio white is a light-bodied wine with scents of Muscat grape, peach and straw. There is also a light spritz to enliven the light acidity. This is a wine meant to be enjoyed young and can be had as an aperitivo.

Smiles, brimming from ear to ear. Taken at a wine shop in Venice. You can fill up any container you like, such as the water bottle I used. One litre of Cabernet franc for 2,30 € and it was the best-valued table wine I had on the trip.

Italy’s southern half is coming more fashionable in the wine scene with grapes such as Nero d’Avola, Aglianico, Primitivo and Gaglioppo making quite the splash. Primitivo, also known as Zinfandel is widely planted but is a principal grape of Puglia, Italy’s ‘heel’. The grape is known for its fruit forward character in North American wines but Italy’s version is more balanced. The 2011 Itynera Primitivo IGT Salento has delicate fruit notes of strawberry, red currant and pomegranate but is balanced with cedar, smoke and rosemary. The tannins are soft and the wine has a weighty mouthfeel and long finish.

Calabria makes up the rest of the ‘footprint’. Two well-known appellations are Ciro and Lamezia and grapes such as Gaglioppo, Greco Nero, and Nerello Cappuccio are often used such as in the 2011 Statti Lamezia DOC. This wine is more rustic with notes of musk, natural rubber, cocoa, toffee, pepper and a touch of dried strawberry. The tannin and acidity are best tamed with food so the flavours (both food and wine) really begin to shine.

Last but certainly not least to be discovered is Sicily which is the island to the south. The volcanic soils emanating from Mount Etna and the scorching summer heat make for intense red wines. One producer in particular that has popped up is Cusumano and their two wines can be had for around $10. Their 2010 Syrah IGT Sicilia is an easy-going mixed red berry, cherry, cooking spice and rosemary type profile. The length is rather short-lived and the mouthfeel is meant to be on the lighter-weight side. Compare this to the wine made of Sicily’s principal grape, 2011 Nero d’Avola IGT Sicilia, and you’ll discover its blackberry, figgy fruit ripeness that is more full-bodied, with a measure of acid and tannin to provide a well-balanced structure.

And so concludes our first tour through Italy, top to bottom – A dozen wines down and about a hundred or so more to go (give or take a couple dozen). Flights of wines within regions can easily be tasted for anyone wishing to get to know a certain area more intimately. Even more exciting is actually visiting the country and tasting the many house wines of the restaurants you visit. They will dispel the stereotypes you have about ordering house wine in Canadian restaurants as the Italian vini della casa have much to offer and can be had for a few euros for a whole litre.

What’s up, DOC?

The term Denominazione di Origine Controllata is Italy’s version of signifying a controlled appellation and is found on many Italian wine labels. Various criteria such as grape varietal, harvest yield, vine density, location and maturation (to name a few) are regulated and need to be followed to achieve this distinction. A higher tier, DOCG (‘G’ standing for ‘e Guarantita’) has been granted to only a few appellations. Should the winemaker want the flexibility and choose to venture outside of these restrictions, a title of Indicazione Geographica Tipica may be on the label.